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Monthly Archives: March 2011

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Issey Miyake – Paris FW 2011

An Issey Miyake show is an education, but in the gentlest way. The pitch is usually intimidatingly academic; the execution is always enthrallingly intimate. Today, the foundation of the collection was taping, so basic to the manufacture of clothes, but here transformed on the runway before our eyes into an exercise in pure form. In a matter of seconds, black-clad assistants folded and stapled paper tape, origamilike, into five items of clothing: a tailcoat, a dress, a skirt, a peplum jacket, a collar. Models wearing these paper garments were followed by other girls wearing fabric versions of the same look. It was an inventive insight into the process of design. But that is typical of Miyake designer Dai Fujiwara. This was his last collection after five years as creative director. In a week where good-byes have been very much on fashion’s mind, his was one that you wished more people had taken the opportunity to experience.

After the prototype experiment, Fujiwara offered variants on the taped shapes and the houndstooth and herringbone patterns that the folding created. A pixelated houndstooth on a jacket was abstracted on the skirt beneath. Huge padded Vs made an angular puffer vest. Fujiwara drew on the work of artist M.C. Escher to create optical-illusion jacquards. One drop-waisted dress wove ribbons into chevrons and let the ribbons float untrimmed. It was a lyrical effect. But no more so than a dress that layered diaphanous fabric so light its colors seemed to be shifting before your eyes. It might be the most beautiful piece of the week. And if the planets align in some more sensible way, Dai should eventually be able to look back on his five years at Miyake as a pioneering moment in fashion, where thought and deed were united in an inspiringly humanist package.

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Christophe Guillarme – Paris Fall Winter 2011

Christophe Guillarmé is seduced this season with a black & white spirit clearly timeless for Fall/Winter 2011-2012 focusing on a leading dancer escape from Bolshoï. A romantic style from Russian ballets tainted with rock-inspired looks from vintage 1940s and a tribute to Agnes Letestu, the designer takes his inspiration from dance universe.In the exquisite black lace gowns there is the same fierceness requested from a dancer. An amazing amount of hours is needed on each style to recover it with satin tapes or sequined bands to emphasize womens curves.Fuchsia pink and lipstick red touches are lighting this colour range mixing taupe, pearl grey and a strong black accent in various aspects: from seethrow mesh covered with beading and ostrich feathers to « ombré » angora knit.Combinations of gathered or braided jersey dresses and lasercut exclusive lace are creatingfor Christophes muse a strong feeling from Darren Aronofsky movie « Black Swan ».Fore hi-rez photos, DVD videos and Blue-Ray please visit ; http://FashionStock.com

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Leonard – Paris Fall Winter 2011

Best known for his floral prints, Leonard took luxury to a brand new level this season by introducing a true sensuality that is slightly more graphic than romantic. The aesthetics of Asian-inspired peonies, dynamic tribal contours, alongside tamed panthers and reptiles made a unique statement on flowing, pure lined silhouettes. Although the prints stole the show, alluring fabric combinations made a commanding statement as well. Strips of tweed or quilted satin were found on Crepon flirt or silk jersey and were occasionally intermingled with printed leather or Milano wool.Back to the patterns: flamboyant flowers, flowing braids, and a puzzle of stripes and reptilian effects reflected magnetic femininity all the while achieving an attractive geometric position.Lighter blue and reds blended with pink and sand, with white and black holding strong presence. This collection was visually enthralling, and it is evident that concrete talent produced such focused creations.Visit FashionStock.com for more DVD videos, hi-rez photos and Blue-ray compilations!

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Valentin Yudashkin – Paris Fall Winter 2011 

Valentin Yudashkin is one of the most promising designers from Russia that has won his place in Paris. his show was held in the magestic Palais de la Decouverte, being a perfect frame to show his creations. His collection simple, elegant and with clever touches of color (orange mainly) in the make up and the clothes was refreshing to watch. ;I strongly believe that rising stars from emerging countries (Russia, Brasil, India, China & Turkey) will be more and more successful in Paris and in the world. Their economies will rule the world and I am sure their designers will not stay behind. This is part of the new structuring of fashion.

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Steffie Christiaens – Paris Fall Winter 2011

Paris-based Dutch designer Steffie Christiaens debuted her first collection through a baptism of fire- sculpting a progressive silhouette that forsakes a poignant science. The designer created wearable pieces from unconventional processes which involved scorching and melting vintage garments. The textures and silhouettes surely reflect the effects of heat with minimal conceptions infused with elegant futuristic notions.Charcoal dominated the color palette with the occasional burst of a bright cobalt and a shiny purple silk. Angular coats and precisely tailored capes melded well with cashmere fabrics, subdued leather, and exotic reptile skins. Trousers in wool hit directly at the ankle as 3D dresses hit just above the knee, and movement were sensational as pieces of jersey were layered with panels of crocodile and python hides.The collection also incorporated menswear silhouettes, offering a more masculine version of Steffies original aesthetic. Jackets were voluminous in the back and came with raised collars and paired nicely with slim trousers and buckled boots.The finale awed the crowd as technical couture dresses displayed cylindrical piping formed into stiff planes and arching tulip skirts. Steffie truly mastered the art of science and fashion in this risk-taking collection.Please check http://FashionStock.com for hi-resolution photos, DVD videos and more info

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Chloé – Paris Fall Winter 2011

Full of python prints, retro, ’70s looks, and chic colorblocked pieces, the Chloé Fall 2011 collection stayed true to designer Hannah MacGibbons signature style. A few standout pieces from the line include a silk python print dress and a colorblock poncho plus a very daring leather jumpsuit. Check out our video for more from the designer at Paris Fashion Week.

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Estrella Archs – Fall Winter 2011

After all of the brightly colored clothes that designer Estrella Archs produced during her brief and chaotic time designing for the brand Emanuel Ungaro it came as something of a choc to see beige on her catwalk. Beige and more beige, it was only after about ten looks that Ms. Archs tried out a different hue- and it was black. Granted there was a touch of the old Estrella in those first few looks, a band of hot pink could be spotted striping the hem of what might be described as a body sock dress.
Perhaps the designer was fishing for a job at Masion Martin Margiela where her collection would look right at home. Her all in one outfits started with shoes built into socks which were then attached to a skirt via a zipper at the back and continued up and over the body to encompass everything but the models head. Overall this style looked gimmicky. The only moment where the idea seem like it was going anywhere was when a blazer was seamlessly molded out the top of one ensemble. When the designer moved away from this experimentation the collection started to gain tractionand color.
In shades of pink, from blush to fuchsia and orange Ms. Archs relaxed her silhouette showing boxy tail coats cut from what looked like vintage kimonos covered in cranes and a number of simple draped dresses. Those dresses looked even more interesting once the models reveled themselves to be ballerinas and took to the catwalk en pointe.

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Costume National – Fall Winter 2011

The punchy minimalism of Ennio Capasa’s last collection was clearly well received. (No less than Anna Dello Russo showed up in an Yves Klein-blue suit from it at today’s show.) It makes sense that the designer built on the same clean-lined and colorful foundation for Fall. If it ain’t broke

Capasa maintained the exact structure of Spring with its four chromatic groupings, but instead of pure doses of solid color, he set it against black. But that wasn’t really the problem. The pairing worked nicely against ivory and lipstick red, but the other two hues in Fall’s rainbow were of the wishy-washy, muted sort. That lemony yellow in particular is a color no one’s ever dying to wear, particularly when blocked with black.

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